The Queen of the Valley

“Faith sees a beautiful blossom in a bulb, a lovely garden in a seed, 

and a giant oak in an acorn.”

~William Arthur Ward

No matter where you travel, you always know you are home when the oak-studded grassy landscapes of the Central Coast come into view.  Nothing looks quite the same as these iconic rural California savannas covering the inland valleys and hills, with swaths of colorful wildflowers in the spring and bright green grasses that turn a tawny brittle brown in the fall. The term “savanna” refers to broad expanses where scattered trees are widely-spaced and grasses grow easily underneath and between them. And the reigning queen of the oak savanna is our own majestic Valley Oak.

The Valley Oak (Quercus lobata) is the most common tree in the savanna, and the largest of all the oaks, often living 600 years and reaching a height of 100 feet. Unlike the Coast Live Oak, they have a more upright stature with deeply checkered alligator bark and thin, lobed leaves that are shed in the fall, leaving their gnarled and massive trunks, branches and limbs darkly silhouetted against the winter sky.

It’s hard to imagine that oak trees are in any danger of being lost, but actually Valley Oaks are “endemic” to California, meaning they do not grow naturally anywhere else in the world. These particular oaks need a source of moisture located by their 50- to 60-foot long tap roots, so only grow in the rich soil of bottom lands and near creeks and springs, also known as prime farmland. More than 75 percent of California oak woodland and oak savanna ecosystems are grazed by cattle and sheep, eating leaves, acorns, seedlings, and saplings. Residential development has been particularly devastating for Valley Oaks, so several agencies (www.Californiaoaks.org) are now involved with helping towns and ranchers learn to conserve, restore and manage our unique oak populations. 

There are certain perks that go along with being a queen, and the Valley Oak has the distinction of being a “keystone” species: a plant or animal that plays a unique and crucial role in the way an ecosystem functions. Without keystone species, the ecosystem would be dramatically different or cease to exist altogether. The number of mammals, reptiles, birds, fungi and insects that depend upon the Valley Oak is staggering: studies show that they provide more food and shelter than any other oak. 

If the Valley Oak is a queen, then her acorns are the tiny jewels she drapes across her leafy canopy. Wrapped in an elongated tough outer coat with their jaunty caps, the meaty nut inside has been a vital food source for animals and Native Americans for centuries.  A single mule deer can eat up to 300 acorns per day when acorns ripen in the fall, just when they need to put on fat. 

It’s hard to talk about oaks without mentioning the multitude of birds who are active in and around them. By focusing on just an individual tree for a few minutes, one might see large gregarious groups of acorn woodpeckers darting in and out on their way to stash their tasty acorns in a storage, or “granary” tree.  Twiggy nests might be seen on tall branches or in cavities on limbs, along with clumps of parasitic mistletoe which has a unique wildlife value all its own: it is the only caterpillar food plant for the Great Purple Hairstreak, a tiny red and green butterfly with an orange abdomen. 

And this queen’s impressive reign doesn’t end where the trunk meets the ground, but continues downward in a vast network of leaves, twigs, and acorns layered between the rich soil. Home to a vital community of insects, amphibians, decomposers and fungi, oak leaf litter is a crucial component of the ecosystem. 

Oaks need an undisturbed understory and should not have paving or trenching between their trucks and drip lines. Their root zone is fragile, and compacted soil from foot traffic or parked cars can lead to problems. Mature oaks do not need supplemental water, so only using native plants under oaks is the best way to landscape. 

Many people shy away from planting oaks, thinking they are too slow-growing or take up too much space, but when you think of the enormous ecosystem that you will be building and the prospect of having it grow and thrive for centuries to come, it makes it all worthwhile. 

Of Magpies and Monkeyflowers

“There is nothing in which the birds differ more from man than they way in 

which they can build and yet leave a landscape as it was before.” ~Robert Lynd 

One of the best things about living on the central coast is getting to share it with the tenacious Yellow-billed Magpie (Pica nuttalli). With the curiosity of a crow and loud chatter of a blue jay, they arrive in small flocks to investigate the yard and show off that blazing black, white and iridescent blue plumage. Often seen hopping along local roadsides (like crows, they will dine on carrion), they need tall trees like oaks and sycamores near open meadows to nest and hunt. Chosen as Audubon’s first California Bird of Year in 2009, this magpie is actually one special bird! 

Although they are a close relative to the more common black magpie, that distinctive yellow bill tells the story of being cut off from the others long ago, and becoming geographically isolated in the central valleys. They are only found from the Santa Ynez Valley to Salinas on the coast, and from Fresno to Redding inland, meaning that they are “endemic” to California, and not found anywhere else in the world. Most other local birds, including our state bird, the California Quail, have ranges that include other states or countries, and thus are not endemic. Being endemic makes the Yellow-billed Magpie one of California’s two most vulnerable bird species, with loss of habitat and disease being their most common foes. And since they do not migrate, once a population dies out, it’s gone for good.

The only other endemic bird in our state lives just off our southern shores, on Santa Cruz Island. The Island Scrub Jay (Aphelocoma insularis) likely became isolated from the mainland species after a period of glaciation around 150,000 years ago. This jay evolved to be larger, with a heavier bill, and interestingly the endemic Island Oak tree (Quercus tomentella) has very large acorns, the jay’s favorite food. Santa Cruz Island is about 95 square miles, the entire range of this jay, and thus is under conservation status as threatened. 

Luckily, most other bird populations rarely become completely isolated since they can move around (both with wings and legs) and perhaps adapt to different situations as needed, but not so with plants! There area at least 25 native plants that have become extinct in California in the past 100 years, primarily due to habitat loss from development. According to the California Department of Fish and Wildlife, there are 218 species, subspecies, and varieties of native plants designated as rare, threatened, or endangered now protected by state law, and over 2000 more that are considered to be of concern. 

A local example would be the little yellow Vandenberg Monkeyflower (Diplacus vandenbergensis), growing in only nine sites around Lompoc including the Vandenberg Air Force Base, the Burton Mesa Ecological Reserve, and La Purisima Mission State Park. Monkeyflowers as a whole are common in California, with close to a hundred described species native to the state. Often found clinging to rocky slopes and cliffs, many varieties and colors can be successfully grown in the home landscape and are available at native plant nurseries.

The Vandenberg Monkeyflower is one of the rarest of those species. It grows on soils mainly made up of sand deposited during the Pleistocene, in canopy openings between larger shrubs. Invasive plants pose the greatest threat to the species; by colonizing those canopy openings, plants such as pampas grass and iceplant can displace the monkeyflower from its habitat. The plant also faces threats from development, fire, and off-road vehicle use, and was granted protection by the Federal Endangered Species Act last August.

Another familiar endemic plant is our own majestic Valley Oak tree (Quercus lobata), native to the inland valleys of Central California, and the largest of all North American oaks. With enormous branches now heavy with acorns, and the jays, woodpeckers and magpies are busy squabbling over their annual fall feast. When Californians learn more about our rare and endangered species, most want to become better stewards of the land to provide the healthy environment these remarkable and vulnerable animals and plants deserve. By taking into consideration the long-term effects of our actions in our backyards, neighborhoods, towns and cities, we can all participate in the long-term successes of our unique local endemic species for generations to come.

Get Ready for Fall Planting

“That old September feeling... of summer passing, vacation nearly done, obligations gathering, books and football in the air...Another fall, another turned page: there was something of jubilee in that annual autumnal beginning, as if last year’s mistakes and failures had been wiped clean by summer.” ~Wallace Stegner

This morning, my neighbor commented that there was a “hint of fall in the air,” and I would have to agree. Days are getting shorter, oaks are heavy with acorns, and the sycamore leaves are decidedly more dusty yellow than apple green. Here in the Valley, we are still having hot days, so summer is not quite ready to go, but it’s definitely time to start thinking about fall planting: the best time to plant natives. 

Planting during October and November is advantageous for several reasons. The dry heat of the summer has subsided, and by the time it comes around again next year, plants have had a chance to develop their root systems and are prepared for the stress. Also, new plants are in a prime stage of development to utilize any winter rains we get between now and February. And lastly, the nurseries are brimming with possibilities, offering the best selection and variety of the year. The Santa Barbara Botanic Garden fall plant sale lasts from September 28 to November 2, and features thousands of plants perfect for our area. Manzanita Nursery in Buellton is open on the weekends and offers a knowledgeable staff for help with the myriad of drought-tolerant choices.

There are many reasons to add more native plants in your landscape, but here are the top five according to the California Native Plant Society (www.cnps.org):

• Save Water

Take advantage of water conserving plants in your landscape. Once established, many California native plants need minimal irrigation beyond normal rainfall. Saving water conserves a vital, limited resource and saves money, too.

• Less Maintenance

In a garden environment, native plants do best with some attention and care, but require less water, fertilizer, pruning, pesticides, and less of your time to maintain than do many common garden plants.

• Reduce Pesticides

Native plants have developed their own defenses against many pests and diseases. Since most pesticides kill indiscriminately, beneficial insects become secondary targets in the fight against pests. Reducing or eliminating pesticide use lets natural pest control take over and keeps garden toxins out of our creeks and watersheds.

• Invite Wildlife

Native plants, hummingbirds, butterflies, and other beneficial insects are “made for each other.” Research shows that native wildlife clearly prefers native plants. California’s wealth of insect pollinators can improve fruit set in your garden, while a variety of native insects and birds will help keep your landscape free of mosquitoes and plant-eating bugs.

• Support Local Ecology

While creating native landscapes can never replace natural habitats lost to development, planting gardens, parks, and roadsides with California native plants can help provide an important bridge to nearby remaining wild areas. Recommend native plants to homeowner associations, neighbors, and civic departments.

In addition to these, the very best reason to plant natives is because they are spectacular! Whether it’s a tree, shrub, vine or ground cover, they are definitely some of the world’s most unique and attractive plants. Some folks complain that natives don’t give them the “all-year color” that they insist represents a well-designed and engaging landscape. I deliberately took this photograph of a native garden in late summer to demonstrate the variety of late summer color and beauty.

Located in front of the Historic Museum in Santa Ynez, this garden has interesting texture, form and color all year-round, and requires little water. In August, there were over twenty-five different salvias, sages, lavenders, penstemon, catnip, and rudbeckia still blooming nicely, with grey boulders and cream-colored gravel nicely adding to the overall naturalistic design. Through its collections, exhibits and educational programs, the Museum honors the Valley’s past for the enjoyment of generations to come, and their landscape honors this mission perfectly. 

Fall is a time of harvest and renewal; orange pumpkins and falling leaves prepare us for homemade pies and crackling fires, and the cycle of cleaning up mature plantings and adding fresh new ones eagerly begins again. Whether you begin with one plant or several, you’ll be glad you started early! 

Meet the Wild Buckwheats

“In the garden, few plants can equal Eriogonum for sheer habitat value.”

~Mike Evans

Buckwheats belong to one of the most robust native plant families and evoke images of original California landscapes with their tawny tans, dark pinks, and rusty hues and long blooming season. Often found growing in masses on rocky hillsides or along dusty country roads, more than 125 species call our state their home. Not related to the buckwheat grain cultivated and used for flour and pancakes (Fagopyrum esculentum), native buckwheat belongs to the large genus Eriogonum in the Polygonaceae family.  They range in colors from whites and creams to pinks, reds and chocolates, and from low-growing and compact to shrubby and waist high. And luckily for the home gardener, many varieties are available at native plant nurseries and can be easily incorporated into sunny, well-drained areas of a butterfly garden and drought-tolerant landscape.

Once you learn to identify the distinctive characteristics of buckwheats, you will be surprised by their wide distribution and diversity in our local costal sage scrub and oak woodlands. Next to hiking in the foothills, my favorite viewing spot is from the passenger seat of our car, driving on Hwy 101 between Santa Maria and Goleta, especially the graded hillsides just west of Refugio Beach. These steep rocky slopes on either side of the highway are generously covered with several different buckwheat varieties, clearly showing masses of flowers as they turn from creamy whites and pinks in the spring, to rusty reds and browns in the late summer, contrasting nicely with their understated grey-green foliage. More buckwheats can be seen growing in disturbed areas next to the asphalt and gravel, providing for interesting contrasts with the wild grasses and sages.

The amazing Channel Islands are home to numerous buckwheats, including the giant of its genus, Saint Catherine’s lace (E. giganteum) often seen covered in a mass of delicate snowy white flower heads. The flowers are often used in dried arrangements and keep their color for several years. Growing 4 to 8 feet tall and wide, they can be a focal point in a border or even a large container.

An exception to the rule about common buckwheat colors, saffron buckwheat has a striking sulfur-yellow blooms from April through August, with bright silver-grey foliage. Any buckwheat fan will want to include this petite variety, also called Conejo buckwheat, into their garden, and it looks best in a rock garden or in the front of a perennial border. In the wild, this plant is found only in the Conejo Valley of Ventura County, and is a California ‘endemic’, meaning that it only grows in that area. By propagating seeds collected from these rare natives, botanists help ensure that endemics do not become extinct through habitat loss, climate change, or disease.  Growers then make these plants available to the public, and the home gardener can contribute to the continued survival of a tiny but vital links to a healthy environment. Be sure to visit the upcoming Santa Barbara Botanic Garden’s fall plant sale in October for a fantastic selection.

As with all native plants, they provide a valuable service as food, nectar, and refuge for wildlife. Even more importantly, they provide a vital life line for the local insects, birds, reptiles and mammals that have evolved to rely exclusively on a particular species or variety. For example, the tiny (less than one inch wing span) Western Square-dotted Blue (Euphilotes battoides) butterfly spends its entire life around the California buckwheat (E. fasciculatum). Males patrol all day near host plants to find receptive females. Eggs are laid singly on host plant flowers; caterpillars eat flowers and fruits, and are protected by ants. Chrysalids hibernate in sand or leaf litter, and emerge to spread their wings and look for more delicious buckwheats. 

If you find the natural world to be a source of inspiration and interest, you should consider becoming a UCCE California Naturalist (http://calnat.ucanr.edu).  The certification introduces students to the wonders of the California Central Coast region’s unique ecology and engages volunteers in the stewardship of our natural communities. The next Naturalist training program will held on Wednesdays from 4:00 – 7:30 pm, October 1 through December 10, with classes and field trips at the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, Sedgwick Reserve, and other locations through the county.